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index.html

@@ -189,10 +189,68 @@ Click on "Ok" to confirm, then click on "Run" to launch the job. The machine wil
 <b>If those margins go beyond the copper clad or overlap with the clamps, STOP the machine by clicking on the red stop icon.</b> Go back to the configuration, and correct the X and Y offsets so that your program does not crash the machine in anything.
 </p>
 
+<a href="./img/laser.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/laser.jpg"/></a>
 
+<p>
+If everything looks right, the machine will probe, then start milling the traces with the fine tool:
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/milling-traces.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/milling-traces.jpg"/></a>
+
+<p>
+If you see the machine <b>failing to mill through copper in some parts of the copper clad</b>, the most common cause is a <b>bowing copper clad</b>. As the machine is trying to mill, the stock just bends away from the tool. To fix this, you can pick a more flat copper clad, use better clamping, or use double sided tape to tape it to the sacrifical layer (which should also be flat).
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here is the result of a successful trace milling:
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/traces.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/traces.jpg"/></a>
+
+<p>
+The machine then picks up the larger tool, and mills the outline of your board. Afterward, the machine will drop the tool and bring the working area toward you. Here is the final result:
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/result-final.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/result-final.jpg"/></a>
 
 <h2>4. Removing your board and cleaning up</h2>
 
+<p>
+Although the machine has a built-in vacuum, there will be a small amount of dust left after milling. To keep the machine tidy for the next user, please use a shop vac to extract all the remaining powder:
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/vacuum.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/vacuum.jpg"/></a>
+
+<p>
+To break off the tabs, you can use a chisel to gently push the board. If the tabs don't break off immediately, use the sharp side of the chisel to gently lift the board, but don't scratch the sacrifical layer too much, as that might make it non-flat for future uses.
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/chisel.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/chisel.jpg"/></a>
+
+<p>
+If you want the tabs to fully disappear, you can use a file on the edges of your board.
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/filing.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/filing.jpg"/></a>
+
+<p>
+The milling process sometimes leaves burrs on the traces, as the copper gets lifted during cutting. To have a cleaner board, and reduce the odds of short circuits, you can use a light abrasive to deburr the surface of your board. Scotch brite or high grit sand paper is perfect for that use case.
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/abrasive.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/abrasive.jpg"/></a>
+
+<p>
+Another perfect board. Pat yourself on the back, and move on to soldering. You can optionally use dish soap and water to clean off the last few impurities, but make sure to get rid of all the soap and water before soldering.
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/board-final.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/board-final.jpg"/></a>
+
+<p>
+Last tip: if you want to quickly look for short circuits, you can shine a light from the back of the board to enhance contrast.
+</p>
+
+<a href="./img/light-back.jpg" target=_blank><img src="./img/light-back.jpg"/></a>
+
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